Alpinism for me is going out from my comfort zone to approximate my real self. It is getting to know my limits and accept them. It is experiencing deep emotions that make me feel alive as anything else. It is pleasure in the movement and contemplation of nature. It makes you enter in a kind of meditative state too, because you are 100% in the “here and now”. In a nutshell, for me it is the closest that you can have to a spiritual experience.
Here there is a selection of ascents that had some importance for myself, either in term of beauty, adventure and overall commitment.
ROCK CLIMBING ASCENTS
| Mountain/place | Route | Difficulty | Length (m) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pizzo Badile | Cassin | VI | 1200 |
| Tofana di Rozes | Costantini Ghedina | VI- | 750 |
| Tofana di Rozes | Alverà Pompanin | V+ | |
| Cima Piccola di lavaredo | Spigolo Giallo | VI | |
| Ciavazes | Diedro Buhl | VI | |
| Seconda torre del Sella | Kasnapov | V- | |
| Torre Grande Falzarego | via Dibona | V | |
| Grand Capucin | Via degli svizzeri | 6b | |
| Petit Capucin | Roi du siam | VI- | |
| Peak Adolphe Rey | Bettembourg | 6b+ | |
| Peak Adolphe Rey | Salluard | 6a+ | |
| Trident du tacul | Bonne Etique | 7a | |
| Tour Ronde | Cheraz | 6b+ | |
| Sergent | Sole nascente | VI+ | |
| Sergent | Nautilus | 6a | |
| Sergent | Tempi moderni | 6c+ | |
| Sergent | L’orecchio del pachiderma | 6b | |
| Sergent | Diedro del mistero | 6b | |
| Sergent | Cannabis Rock | 7b | |
| Sergent | L’Ultima follia di Sir Biss | 6b+ | |
| Sergent | Jedi Master | 7a | |
| Sergent | Elisir d’incastro | 6b+ | |
| Sergent | Fessura della Disperazione | VII- | |
| Sergent | La nicchia delle torture | 6b | |
| Caporal | Diedro Nanchez | 6b | |
| Scoglio di Mrotz | Via Gogna | 6a | |
| Torre di Aimonin | La via degli specchi | 6c | |
| Becco della tribolazione | Grassi Re | 6a+ | |
| Becco di Valsoera | Melano Perego | 6b | |
| Val di Mello | Risveglio di Kundalini | VI+ | |
| Val di Mello | Polimago | 6a+ | |
| Val di Mello | Oceano Irrazionale | VII | |
| Pizzo Cengalo | Spigolo vinci | VI | |
| Dente della vecchia | Polydent | 6a+ | |
| Queyrellin | Les Dents de Cyrielle | 7a | |
| Aguille Dibona | Visite obligatoire | 6a+ | |
| Salbit | Cresta Sud-Ovest (fino 3 torre) | VII | |
| Cima d’ambiez | via goduria | VI+ | |
| Cima d’ambiez | Fox Stenico | 6a | |
| Punta Giradili | Mediterraneo | 7b | |
| Punta Giradili | 7 anni di solitudine | 7a | 395 |
| Punta Goloritze’ | Il mio veleno | 7a | |
| Monte Oddeu | La mia africa | 6c+ | |
| Monte Oddeu | Vivere di sogni | 6c+ | |
| Ubaye | Festival | 6b+ | 600 |
| Arco | Meskalito | 7a | |
| Arco | Ultimo Tango | 6c+ | |
| Arco | Soleado | 7a | |
| Verdon | Serie Limite | 7a | |
| Verdon | Une valse pour Manon | 6c | |
| Verdon | Ensemble por um evidence | 6c | |
| Gran Sasso | La notte delle streghe | VI+ | |
| Paklenica | Johnny | 7a | |
| Paklenica | Senza pietà | 6b+ | |
| Corsica (Bavella) | Jeff | 7b | |
| Corsica (Bavella) | Acqua in bocca | 7a | |
| Pilastro Lomasti | Silvy | 7a | |
| Pilastro Lomasti | Verde Milonga | 6b+ | |
| Pianarella | Joe Falchetto | 7a | |
| Penon de Ifach (Spagna) | Diedro UCBA | 6b |
EXTRA-EUROPE ASCENTS
| Mountain/place | Route | Difficulty | Length (m) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Alison Peak (5600m), Karakorum, Pakistan | Welcome to the jungle (first ascent Ballard, Nardi, Focchi, 2017) | VI+ A0/ TD+ | 950 |
| Fiost Broq (5850m), Karakorum, Pakistan | Amman in Kashmir (first ascent Sanguineti, Cavalli, Focchi, 2017) | 6b/ AI6X/ ED+ | 1300 |
| Punta Città di Biella (5050m), Karakorum, Pakistan | Via delle Poiane (first ascent Sanguineti, Cavalli, Focchi, 2017) | 6b+/TD+ | 450 |
| Raimbow Buttress (Morocco, Tafraute) | Un the con amici (first ascent Sanguineti, Pagnoncelli, Focchi, 2018) | 6b/A0; | 185 |
| Babouche Buttress (Morocco, Tafraute) | Via Luciana (first ascent Sanguineti, Pagnoncelli, Focchi, 2018) | 6a | 140 |
| Kakaa Wall (Morocco, Tafraute) | Cascata di cristalli (first ascent Sanguineti, Pagnoncelli, Focchi, 2018) | 6b | 280 |
| Aguja Mermoz (Patagonia) | Pilar Rojo | ED- / 7a+ | 450 |
| Morocco, Taghia | Baraka | 7b | 680 |
| Morocco, Taghia | Belle et Berbere | 6b+ | |
| Morocco, Taghia | Mano del Maroc | 7b | |
| Wadi Rum, Jordan | Merlin’s wand | VII | |
| Wadi Rum, Jordan | The beauty | VI+ | |
| Corcovado, Brazil | K2 | 6b | |
| Pao De Acucar, Brazil | via dos italianos | 6b | |
| Turkey | Mount Ararat (5137 m) | F | 3200 |
GOULOTTES AND ICE WATERFALL
| Mountain/place | Route | Difficulty | Type |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aiguille de Tour Ronde | Goulotte Delafosse-Perroux | TD/ 4+ AI/ M4 | Goulotte |
| Aiguille du Midì | Goulotte Le Vent du Dragon | TD-/ 4 AI/ M5+ | Goulotte |
| Triangle du Tacul | Goulotte Chere’ | D+ | Goulotte |
| Mont-blanc du Tacul | Goulotte Modica-Noury (winter ascent) | TD+ / 4+ AI/ M5 | Goulotte |
| Torre Innerkofler | Apparizione | ED- / 5+ AI /M5+ | Goulotte |
| Valnontey | Repentance Super | 5+ WI | Waterfall |
| Valnontey | Monday Money | ED- / 4+ WI | Waterfall |
| Forno di Zoldo | Gran Dama | 5+ WI | Waterfall |
| Campitello di Fassa | Rio Pelous | 4+ WI | Waterfall |
| Ceillac | Les formes du Chaos | 4 WI | Waterfall |
| Val D’avers | Il mostro – Tron | 5+ WI | Waterfall |
| Val D’avers | Diedrolux | 4+ WI | Waterfall |
| Valnontey | Eknaton | 4+ WI | Waterfall |
| Valnontey | Patrì candelone | 4 WI | Waterfall |
| Valeille | Tutto è relativo | 4 WI | Waterfall |
| Ollomont | Sodoma | 5 WI | Waterfall |
| Val d’Ayas | Sbregoretex | 4 WI | Waterfall |
| Val d’Ayas | Cortoz di destra | 4+ WI | Waterfall |
| Cattaragna | Fantasia | 4+ WI | Waterfall |
SKI-MOUNTANEERING
| Mountain/place | Start | Elevation (m) | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Alpubuel (4206m) | Täschhütte | 1550 | BSA |
| Basodino | Riale | 1650 | BSA |
| Breithorn occidentale (4165m) | Plato Rosà | BSA | |
| Corno Nero (4167m) | Gniffetti | BS | |
| Ludwigshoe (4342m) | Gniffetti | BSA | |
| Punta Calabre (3445m) | Benevolo | 1550 | MSA |
| Rocca Dell’abisso | Limonetto | 1400 | BS |
| Cima della piccola | Ceresole Reale | 1290 | BS |
| Enchastraye e Tre vescovi | Grange | 1186 | BS |
ALPINISTIC SUMMITS
| Mountain/place | Route | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| Mount Ararat (5137m) | Via Normale | F (3000m elevation) |
| Castore (4225m) | Traversata NO-SE | PD |
| Aiguille de Tour Ronde (3792m) | Canale Gervasutti | D |
| Gran Paradiso (4.061 m) | Parete Nord (free-solo) | D+ |
| Aiguille de Tour Ronde (3792m) | Parete Nord (winter ascent) | D- |
| Aletschhorn (4195m) | Cresta SO | PD+ (3000m elevation) |
| Polluce (4092m) | Parete Nord (winter ascent) | D+ |
| Argentera | Canale Lourusa | AD |